Polpettone di Patate e Fagiolini

Don't let the name fool you — the Genovese polpettone has nothing to do with meatloaf. It's a baked vegetable cake: green beans and potatoes, boiled and mashed, bound with egg, Parmigiano and a good handful of marjoram, then baked until the top is golden and crusty with breadcrumbs.

It's humble, home food — the kind of thing made to use up the garden and eaten at room temperature, cut into squares. Some versions add mushrooms or a little ricotta; every family has its own. It's a regular at picnics, beach days and family lunches.

Look for it in the sciamadde and rosticcerie around the old town — Sa Pesta, tucked in the alleys, is a classic for Genovese vegetable bakes. Buy a slice, eat it with your hands, and you'll see why it never goes out of fashion here.